Sorry this is a bit late. Some photos from the York (PA) Pinball Show, also known as the White Rose Show. (Oct 12, 2007)
Laura and I really enjoyed this one--plenty of good games, most showing a bit of wear, but the kind of wear that shows a game has been played. Not many HUO games at this one, but that's OK. Those Home Use games always seem so fragile, like I'm playing with a museum piece.
Embryon (one of my faves from the show. A good-playing wide-body game):
Star Trek:
Astro: This was next to the Star Trek game. And in the middle of the Astro playfield were the words "Star Trek"
Sunday, October 21, 2007
Tuesday, October 2, 2007
Gnashing of teeth! Rending of garments!
I lost my high scores! I may have accidentally hit the reset button inside the door, but the high score reset has happened twice now. Last winter, I noticed that the machine had trouble starting some mornings (especially if its been cold). The game seems slow (even the music seems slowed down) until it warms up (generally after a single game). I suspect the big capacitor on the power supply board may be failing.
I checked and replaced the motherboard batteries just in case (I have an external battery holder, but I haven't soldered it in yet--I'm leery of getting my shaky soldering hand anywhere near an irreplaceable motherboard). And I went looking for a 12000mf axial capacitor. I couldn't find one (I didn't look that hard because I'm not sure that's even the problem. And again, shaky soldering hand, irreplaceable circuit board)
But it isn't irreplaceable. I found a power supply replacement board from RottenDog Amusements. It was much cheaper than the stock boards I found on eBay, and it's new, not 20 years old.
So my next foray into the pinball guts will be the power supply board replacement. Stay tuned!
I checked and replaced the motherboard batteries just in case (I have an external battery holder, but I haven't soldered it in yet--I'm leery of getting my shaky soldering hand anywhere near an irreplaceable motherboard). And I went looking for a 12000mf axial capacitor. I couldn't find one (I didn't look that hard because I'm not sure that's even the problem. And again, shaky soldering hand, irreplaceable circuit board)
But it isn't irreplaceable. I found a power supply replacement board from RottenDog Amusements. It was much cheaper than the stock boards I found on eBay, and it's new, not 20 years old.
So my next foray into the pinball guts will be the power supply board replacement. Stay tuned!
Repairing the Shaker Motor
OK, so Earthshaker has a motor in the cabinet that shakes the machine when the player drops a ball into the capture targets. The motor is he same used in Williams' Harley-Davidson game; it uses a set of eccentric (unbalanced) weights to cause the shaking. The motor uses two carbon brushes, and it seemed these were getting worn out.
Often, the machine wouldn't shake at all until I banged on the bottom of the cabinet (beneath the shaker motor), or opened it up to spin the weights around a few times.
Somewhere I read that the briushes are the same as Ford Escort starter motor brushes. So I ordered some (I figured 1985, since that's the machine's date). Well, they don't fit at all. Not even close.
So I found a place online selling Earthshaker motor brush kits (Steve Young's Pinball Resource). The kit includes two brushes already mounted in the housings with springs and everything.
Getting the shaker motor out was a more difficult job than I thought. I knew that sucker had to be in there pretty good or it would have shaken itself loose by now, but the housing is very tight, with a bar across the top, and two metal sides. I basically unscrewed everything that could be unscrewed (including the weights, held on with counter-sunk allen screws). After about an hour, I had the motor out.
Before I replaced the brushes, I checked the old ones. One was pretty badly worn, but the other was fine. Upon further inspection, I noticed a bent lead on the worn brush. The brush had been jammed up against the commutator by this lead. Simply unbending it allowed the spring to pull the brush back, and it seemed there was plenty of brush left.
I figured I'd just clean and reinstall, but I knew the brushes (one at least) was going to wear out soon, so I installed quick connect terminals to the motor and the lead wires. Now, when I need to replace the brushes, I can just disconnect the leads, pop out the brushes and put the replacements in!
Here it is, after installing the quick disconnects. They've held for a few months now, so I think it'll be OK:
Often, the machine wouldn't shake at all until I banged on the bottom of the cabinet (beneath the shaker motor), or opened it up to spin the weights around a few times.
Somewhere I read that the briushes are the same as Ford Escort starter motor brushes. So I ordered some (I figured 1985, since that's the machine's date). Well, they don't fit at all. Not even close.
So I found a place online selling Earthshaker motor brush kits (Steve Young's Pinball Resource). The kit includes two brushes already mounted in the housings with springs and everything.
Getting the shaker motor out was a more difficult job than I thought. I knew that sucker had to be in there pretty good or it would have shaken itself loose by now, but the housing is very tight, with a bar across the top, and two metal sides. I basically unscrewed everything that could be unscrewed (including the weights, held on with counter-sunk allen screws). After about an hour, I had the motor out.
Before I replaced the brushes, I checked the old ones. One was pretty badly worn, but the other was fine. Upon further inspection, I noticed a bent lead on the worn brush. The brush had been jammed up against the commutator by this lead. Simply unbending it allowed the spring to pull the brush back, and it seemed there was plenty of brush left.
I figured I'd just clean and reinstall, but I knew the brushes (one at least) was going to wear out soon, so I installed quick connect terminals to the motor and the lead wires. Now, when I need to replace the brushes, I can just disconnect the leads, pop out the brushes and put the replacements in!
Here it is, after installing the quick disconnects. They've held for a few months now, so I think it'll be OK:
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)